Proto 2000 0-6-0 drive rod disconnected from wheel - Model Railroader Magazine

Do not try to put any glue on the pin; it will be displaced up the shaft and get in the bearings, perhaps even if the 'inside' paper washer is tight on the shaft.  Put adhesive only in the hole, and take care to leave room at the 'back' for any excess to escape as the pin bottoms, watching periodically for it to do so -- I assume the hole goes through to the back.  If it does not, consider drilling a very fine relief hole for excess cement, as you want as much pin contact area 'glued' as you can...

The paper handles any pressure issues so you don't worry about 'is it in far enough yet?'  In fact clearance is its primary purpose, not keeping glue out of the rod joints.

Assembly requires PARALLEL action, the sort of thing you'd get from a small C clamp with the screw directly above the pin and the anvil behind.  The immediate tool that came to mind was the device used to press pins out of wristwatch band links when adjusting length; cheap ones are peddled on eBay from "US sellers" that should get to you quick.  I would NOT use anything but smooth pressure for the last mm or so that finishes seating the rods, even with paper 'backstopping' you, as it may become difficult to get the last pieces of paper out without stuff like the .19mm wire used to fix cell phones...

Likewise, as you start to set the pin, you'll want to keep the shank parallel to the hole as it goes in; you would want the longest jaw possible, and what I'd at least consider is getting a relatively cheap pair of needlenose, clamping the jaws shut and cross-drilling a hole near the tips so you have a semicircular recess in each jaw, polish and deburr these, and make up jaw pads the can pivot in each.  You will notice some 'furniture' clamps have jaws made this way so they align to mortise-and-tenon joints or whatever on work that isn't perfectly square yet but needs to be; this approach for clamping should keep small jaws parallel to pin and driver back as you start squeezing, but still let you see the shank clearly as you go.  (Seeing the pin clearly is another reason not to apply any glue to it directly...).  Use a square block as a spacer if the eccentric crank blocks getting the 'outside' jaw centered over the pin end.

If you think you have to drive it in for the travel between seating it and fine finish-clamping it, be sure the back of the driver is FULLY supported all the way around the back of the hole, on something flat and projecting like a hobby anvil horn, or at 45 degrees across the corner of flat-machines hobby vise jaws, and use something like a short drift punch with machined flat end to apply the force 'as straight in line with the pin as possible' (and not mark up the visible end too much).  Use as small a hammer as you can, and many light taps is better than even proper-technique sharper ones.  It makes sense to have a helper keep the rods and stuff aligned while you are eyeballing the straightness of your punch eith the hammer in one hand and the punch in the fingertips of the other; that is likely the principal job that the factory jig would have been doing.